From faded to unfaded

[zckid]

Hi guys

on Thursday last, one of my friends came with his Toyota camy, faded red in color. We set to try the Menzerna polishes with LC CCS pads. But we had limited time coz my friend had to move.

I gave the car a wash, dried and clayed only the roof and the bonnet, ONR as clay lube. The clay picked up quite some contaminants.





sorry for the lack of pics coz of limited time and my boy was lurking around. Besides. the waether not detailing-friendly.

I used the Power Gloss on an orange CCs pad, the 203s on a white pad and the PO85rd on a black one.

I did the bonnet and half of the roof.

Here are some pics









As you can see the pads turned red. Is this normal for faded paint?


A reflection pic of the bonnet. It was cloudy and started to rain too.



However I have a concern. The bonnet looks very fine but in the light, there are some buffer- induced swirls

Any advice on how I can get rid of these? or am I not working the compound and polish fully? there is a problem in the first steps of machine polishing?

i'll post more pics as an when i work on the Camy

Your advice, comments and criticism are all welcome as always

Thanks a lot

zaid

[STaX]

Really brought life back into that tired, old paint.

I find that SIP on my black CCS pad usually removes all induced swirls, maybe you're not working the polish long enough.

[calypso]

If the pad turned red, it means is single stage paint. Can often be soft, adjust accordingly to remove swirl.

[zckid]

Thanks Stax & calypso

may be i didn't work the 203s enough. I'll try it again next week. I'll try to work the PO85rd longer too.

School is resuming tomorrow, so I'll have to tune my timetable to be able to practice in the afternoon.

I got myself a makita rotary coz I had a problem with my 5 kg Clarke rotary and its parts are unavailable locally. So I switched to the 9227(wife not knowing or she'll have me fired :hammerhead, and left the Clarke with a friend. The Makita's got a better feel, though i've used it only once. I was leaning towards the Festool or Flex but preferred the Makita as they have representatives in Mauritius.

[Carn]

Nice work bud

I would hazzard a guess and suggest that you go over the compounded areas again with the P203S. Power Gloss can be quite aggressive and it may be that you need further refinement to remove the buffer trails from the compounding.

[zckid]

Thanks David
will try for sure.

[zckid]

Hi guys

thanks a lot for your priceless advice.

here are some updates.

the 1st part

this i was working under fluoresent light. same process as above but spending some more time with the later stages.














2nd part
Got myself a home made sun gun n i tried to find what wasn't going well. compounded less, worked more but with less and less pressure during the later stages. It came out really well. the speed never exceeded 3 on the buffer.

[img][/img]

[img][/img]











Some reflection pics








Swirls hardly visible but personally, i've got a very long, long way to perfection.

thanks to all of you.

[Rayner]

very nice work. great reflection shot to. :-)

[Lambchop]

Well done bud. That's a nice turn around

The buffer marks are caused by the polish not been worked enough
CCS orange and power gloss is more than enough with a rotary
I'd have used the white pad with the 85RD though and skipped a step


Take your time and work on a medium speed its much better Hgih rpm isn't everything
I also prefer the 3m pads to the CCS pads on a rotary
But prefer the CCS pads on a DA

Iv also just installed some florescent lights in my garge. There is plenty light but doesn't show the swirls as well as my halogens that were installed in the roof

Keep practicing thougb you will definatly get better

[zckid]

Thanks a lot buddies

Next time I order, it will be the 3M or Megs pads for the final stages. I'm wondering whether the contour or curved edge pads are better at avoiding buffer swirls?

I've got to complete the the bumpers on the Camy. They are all plastic and have got some heavy scratches. Would wetsanding them help? (Sorry no pics.) Got the 1500 and 2000 grit

As for 85RD with white pad i'll definitely try it. but again, after the PG compounding, there are so many holograms. Do I work as usual with the 85RD n white pad?

Thanks again Nic

take care

Zaid

[Lambchop]

you should be able to remove the holograms with the 85RD Zaid
Im not sure what polishes you have but if you have the one between PG and 85 RD use that
3.02 if my memory servers me correct

add a bit of 85rd aswell to increase the work time a bit
should do the trick

[STaX]

I found that SIP 85RD3.02 on an orange pad cut through holograms with ease. Tried it on a white pad first but it would've taken many passes and beers to numb the back pain.

[Lambchop]

(30-05-2011 09:13 PM)STaX Wrote:  I found that SIP 85RD3.02 on an orange pad cut through holograms with ease. Tried it on a white pad first but it would've taken many passes and beers to numb the back pain.

HAHHAHA beer just makes me pee all the time
Whiskey cures back pain

[STaX]

Whiskey makes my face hurt...........after the floor hits it

[Lambchop]

(30-05-2011 10:00 PM)STaX Wrote:  Whiskey makes my face hurt...........after the floor hits it

BUWHAHHAHA
Must be that cheap stuff you guys get in Durban

[Carn]

(30-05-2011 05:12 PM)zckid Wrote:  Thanks a lot buddies

Next time I order, it will be the 3M or Megs pads for the final stages. I'm wondering whether the contour or curved edge pads are better at avoiding buffer swirls?

I've got to complete the the bumpers on the Camy. They are all plastic and have got some heavy scratches. Would wetsanding them help? (Sorry no pics.) Got the 1500 and 2000 grit

As for 85RD with white pad i'll definitely try it. but again, after the PG compounding, there are so many holograms. Do I work as usual with the 85RD n white pad?

Thanks again Nic

take care

Zaid

Nice work Zaid, the surface looks smooth and wet!

To answer your questions...A curved or rounded edge on the pad won't have any impact on the creation or removal of holograms. Holograms are usually caused by either using an aggresive polish designed for heavy defect removal, or not working a medium grade polish sufficiently to produce a hologram free finish.

In your case having used Powergloss (the older S34A I assume?) you would need to step down to something like SIP or P203S to knock back the holograms and restore clarity to the paintwork. Powergloss can often be worked to a hologram free finish, but it relies on not working the polish too long (till its dry and dusting), as well as using something like PO85RE for extra lubrication

When it comes to removing holograms something like SIP on a white pad as Nic suggested can be used to good effect. Work the polish as usual (zenith technique, etc) and you should be left with a hologram free finish.


Finally regarding your bumpers...Wetsanding would more than likely remove the scratches, however you need to ensure you have sufficient paint (thickness) available to not only sand the paint, but compound and polish it afterwards


Hope that helps

[zckid]

Thanks very much David

Sure it helps a lot.
n yes its the older S34, followed by 203 and finishing by 85RD

as for Power Gloss not dusting and finishing hologram free, I have to limit the number of passes to very few I suppose?

I've read somewhere that some detailers use baby oil i.c.w Megs 105 and Power Gloss

how they do it?

Your thoughts will be much welcome.

thanks

Zaid

[Lambchop]

Good luck cleaning your polishing pad once you have used baby oil

[STaX]

That's a use once and throw away pad me thinks. Would be a huge mess and the splatter would be unpleasant too.

[zckid]

Thanks guys

I'd rather forget the baby oil thingy

(31-05-2011 04:26 PM)Lambchop Wrote:  Good luck cleaning your polishing pad once you have used baby oil

(31-05-2011 04:33 PM)STaX Wrote:  That's a use once and throw away pad me thinks. Would be a huge mess and the splatter would be unpleasant too.